Re: Clearing cyanotypes, minimizing bleeding into highlights
Brian, On Jan 4, 2008, at 10:47 PM, Brian Pawlowski wrote:
What I do, especially if I add acid to the first tray, is to soak the print in it for a few seconds, then float it in a second tray. After that it doesn't matter too much whether you rinse it off with running water or soak it in another tray.So you float - no water change - just in a tray - say nearlyfull with water. Do you then lift paper out, dump (blue) water, and wash in clear water tray?
Only time the blue would be smeared is when you use too strong acid, when the blue would smear and stick to the back of the paper, and to your pristine white tray.But running water over the print the whole time wouldn't be a problem, except in some cases it could get rid of some highlight densities.I'm worried the running water is "smearing" the Prussian Blue?
I use a Hake brush used just for cyanotype. Rod would work fine, but there's no need to try saving the amount of cyanotype, plus I prefer the brushed edges over the rod coated edges.Do you brush coat or rod coat?
Fine. Except the thought of watching one movie for each coated piece of paper just boggles my mind.With the right paper, the whole process is very simple and quick. You definitely don't need to watch movies in order to wait for it to dry!I still like to watch movies though!
By the way, unless you find that your running water is alkaline, I would leave out the acid prebath. I have a feeling that was the problem.