Re: Taming Fabriano Artistico (Trad. White) for Cyanotype
First of all, thank you all for helpful replies!
Yesterday evening, I tried to acidify Fabriano Artistico TW (as described
in my first message below) and then print a Cyanotype step tablet (w/o
sizing the paper). The reaction was pretty quick -> there was no bubbles
coming out after about 1 - 2 minutes, but I kept it in acid solution for 5
minutes anyway. See the result below:
This is 2A+1B trad. Cyanotype, exposed for 16 minutes under 8x40W Philips
UVBL bulbs (I deliberately overexposed to be sure of speed). According to
the desaturated scan, highest step with dmax is step 8 (8, 7 and 6 all
becoming black at the same time, playing with levels in PS. Steps below 6
are lighter due to solarization by overexposure.), lowest step with dmin
(paper white) is 23 (it isn't evident in the scan / file, can be seen only
by eye inspection), in other words, I'm getting the normal log 1.4 (or log
1.5 including paper white) ES. According to this test, the exposure time
merging steps 1 and 2 to dmax would be 4:00 -> which is not slower than
normal. Tonal progression and grainness looks normal too. (Not bad, at
least.) There's some imperfections which look like bleeding, which - by
experience - I think was caused by heavy overexposure, and will probably
not occur with correct exposure.
I should have exposed a step tablet on untreated paper too, for control /
comparison, but it was too late! Will definitely do it because it's not
pleasant to handle full strenght (35%) HCl!!! (I keep it outside, dilute
outside and only then bring inside...)
Conclusion: HCl treated Fabriano Artistico TW is OK / fine for Trad.
Cyanotype. (Probably for New Cyanotype too!)
Chistina: Thanks for the input. About other papers: unfortunately the only
viable option to me is Fabriano Artistico; I can't find the brands /
papers you mentioned locally -> have to import from overseas...
Paul: Based on my experience, I think you can get even better (if such
room exists) results by switching to HCl (from oxalic acid)...
Marek: Thank you very much for pigment suggestions. I also plan to use
Burnt Umber over Cyanotype (for the purpose of getting dark / neutral
shadows and warm highlights)...
Thanks to all again,
2 Aralık 2008, Salı, 2:51 pm tarihinde, Loris Medici yazmış:
> I have few questions about Fabriano Artistico Trad. White & Trad.
> Is there anyone using this paper for Trad. Cyanotype? Do you pre-treat the
> paper before printing Cyanotype?
> I had a bad experience with Fabriano Artistico and New Cyanotype,
> therefore plan to acidify (or neutralize) the paper before printing Trad.
> Cyanotype. I remember someone's nice Cyanotype prints on Artistico but I'm
> not sure if it was the Trad. White or Extra White variant.
> I want a paper which is good for both Cyanotype and Gum -> I want for more
> dmax / punch with my color prints, therefore want to use Cyanotype as the
> Cyan layer.
> BTW, any non staining / transparent M and Y primary pigment suggestions
> would be highly appreciated. As far as I can see, Schmincke PV19 is nice
> as Magenta but PY151 of the same brand has too much filler and kills the
> underlying layers by seriosly clouding them (despite being marketed as
> I plan to:
> 1. mix 0.5M (~50ml 35% HCl into water givin a final volume of 1000ml) HCl
> 2. put the paper into it for not more than 10 minutes and
> 3. transfer the paper into salted water (to suck the HCl out of the paper
> by osmosis) few minutes
> 4. rinse it (flushing several times) in pH neutral tap water
> Do you think the above procedure is fine to get rid of the calcium
> carbonate buffer in the paper w/o disturbing it's integrity?
> Should I lightly size the paper after acid treatment in order to get a
> decent (contrasty and sharp) Cyanotype layer of will it work OK?
> Thanks in advance!
> P.S. I know I can try this and see for myself but I'm sure there are
> people already tried this before, so I'm trying to save time by not
> pursuing an lenghty but equally ineffective(?) procedure...