Richard Sullivan (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Fri, 21 May 1999 12:06:08 -0600
Someone here on the list, maybe it was Judy, suggested running a bead of
super glue down each side of the hake brush where the bristles went into
the wood. I tried it and it works like a champ. On run down each side is
all you need or else it will flow up the brush towards the bristle ends
give you a stiff brush. We over did it once doing some digital shots for
the website on how to do this.
For me the big difference in Hake brushes was the expensive ones shed less
hair. This trick turns cheap ones into good ones. They work fine for pt
coating but I'd use a rod if I could.
At 02:10 PM 5/21/99 -0400, you wrote:
>On Fri, 21 May 1999, John Melanson wrote:
> > I wonder where you get brushes for pd/pt coating. It seems that they
> > should be metal free, but I don't know of a supply for anything except
> > foam and small Japanese brushes. In "The New Platinum Print", it looks
> > like the brushes have metal ferules. Any comments?
>John, that business about ferrules is merely saluting the flag. Did anyone
>ever dip a brush far enough into pl-pd solution to hit the ferrule?
>Some of the better hake brushes do use stitching instead of metal, but I
>myself think hake is good only for smoothing gum emulsion, wouldn't try to
>spread emulsion with it (though I daresay some pl-pd-ists will not agree).
>Also, I'll add that the stitching is no guarantee -- I've had stinko hake
>brushes with dandy stitching.
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2.0b3 on Thu Oct 28 1999 - 21:39:34