From: Robert W. Schramm (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Date: 11/30/00-08:44:17 PM Z
Kallitype in some forms does tend to be difficult but one version,
namely, Vandyke brown is fairly easy. It is a simple process with
a tonal range similar to platinum. You can use the same negatives
as you would with platinum and it is a lot less expensive. The only
real problem with it involves fixing. All the printed literature
suggests a concentration of sodium thiosulfate that is to great and
a fixing time that is too long. I have never had a problem clearing VDB and
I have some pretty old prints that show no sign of fading.
Also you can gold tone it useing a formula for POP or salt prints.
I believe that someone on the list suggested selenium toner but I
have no experience with that.
There have been several great articles in the PFJ on VDB so I would
suggest reading or rereading those since the info is more accurate
than you will find in hardback literature.
I used to start my students with cyanotype and more them to VDB
before they tried gum or platinum. Never had any problems other than
the usual student laziness and ennui.
>From: Judy Seigel <email@example.com>
>Subject: Re: Palladium
>Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 14:01:08 -0500 (EST)
>On Thu, 30 Nov 2000 Kerik717@aol.com wrote:
> > ... I think you will find that Kallitype is a
> > much more difficult process to master than platinum/palladium. The
> > main hurdles with Kallitype are complete clearing, loss of image
> > density during processing, consistency, and image permanence. For
> > proper clearing, fixing, and toning you will need many more steps in
> > the Kallitype process than pt/pd printing. I think you will get to
>Well, here's another county heard from. Re image loss during fixing, did
>you add ammonia to the fix? With that, image loss was minimal. (Do a
>21-step to measure image loss, then "overprint" accordingly -- wasn't very
>much.) But that may also be a factor of the developer -- I used sodium
>acetate with tartaric acid -- proved a very reliable combo. Also much
>easier to mix than that nasty Rochelle salts (& many times cheaper), &
>less poisonous than potassium oxalate. With that developer virtually no
>clearing problems. For permanency, who knows? But a gold toner (gold
>prices still drop) takes care of that, and with student work, permanency
>is not a paramount issue.
>True, kallitype is more fuss than palladium printing (but anything is more
>fuss than pl/pt printing, the easiest processes on earth, only made
>*difficult* by nervous attacks re the cost of metal), but that's only
>because there's an extra step -- the fixing, plus hypo clear. On the plus
>side, much more flexibility in color of the print & much more variety in
>style of paper. Also free spirit -- and isn't that the whole point?
>If you decide to go on to palladium from there,it will seem even easier
>than it is. I'll add incidentally that I understand some "platinum"
>printers have switched to kallitype for personal work, also that some
>ceertified classes in certified "platinum" begin now with kallitype for
>As for size of print -- a lapidary *vision* is one thing, but surely it's
>inhibiting to print small simply for reasons of economy. And Kerik, I
>wouldn't agree that "less than $1 each" is liberating for a beginner !!!!
>I may be a fossil, but.... .... OK the 4x5 is a good intro to palladium
>printing but many photographers, coming over from silver gelatin, never
>learn anything else, if you could believe !
> > satisfying results much sooner (and with less headache) with pt/pd.
> > And, since you're only printing 4x5 for now, the cost of materials for
> > pt/pd shouldn't be a major issue. You should be able to make 4x5
> > palladium prints for less than $1 each. Start with an inexpensive
> > paper that works well single coated - the Cranes 90# cover that Carl
> > mentioned would be a good choice.
>| Judy Seigel, Editor >
>| World Journal of Post-Factory Photography > "HOW-TO and WHY"
>| firstname.lastname@example.org >
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