From: Judy Seigel (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Date: 02/09/01-11:50:57 PM Z
On Fri, 9 Feb 2001, Garet Denise wrote:
> Judy said: "In any event, I found fastening to a rigid substrate the safest"
> Judy, how do you fasten, and to what substrate?
I've tried several ways, if any was easy I'd do it. First I used shellac
to aluminum like old books (old books said zinc). Couldn't get off with
alcohol like book said, but later I realized you were supposed to sand &
wax the metal nicely before fastening down. But it didn't fasten well
anyway, even with HEAVY shellac, so scratch that.
Then I experimented with various fastenings down with heavy gelatin as
"glue" all over the back, that required much MUCH heat to melt it off, tho
has some promise with variant which I have yet to fully work out.
I think though next trial would be taping with GAFFER'S tape around the
back, only at the edges. I found it bulged variously when wet & didn't
fully resume flat when dry, but error may have been not fitting paper
first when slightly damp. I think that stretches it taut enough so less
bulges when wet.
I found plastic warped under pressure, so in large size has to be
light-guage aluminum as far as I know. Problems are twofold:
mostly, I can't work with piece of aluminum 20 by say 28 inches. Have to
keep paper flexible so I can put part of it into tray at one time, because
I can't physically cope with tray of water that big .... can't fit
more than one in the space, can't lift to dump, takes eon to fill, etc.
The other is, I like to preserve the deckle or at least the torn edge.
When gluing the edges (with any glue) you have to cut them off when done.
So for the moment, I make peace with perils of free register for each
coat. A really heavy paper helps, tho Rives BFK was good for 11x14 (after
prayer and incense), but too thin for bigger...
If you have big space & big trays & strong back, try the aluminum. That's
what I think today, anyway,
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