From: Robert W. Schramm (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Date: 04/09/02-04:53:19 PM Z
I did some extensive tests of cyanotype about two years ago and found that
the original formula works nearly as well as the Ware formula especially if
you use two parts A to one part of B. The Ware formula has a slight edge in
that you get a slight increase in tonal range.
Almost any cold press watercolor paper works well. I use to start my
students with Rives BFK. Since the original formula is inexpensive you can
use a lot of sensitizer and get a good uniform coat. Coat under a 15 - 25
watt incandescent bulb so you can see what you are doing. Use a brush with
no metal (like a Hake brush or foam brush). Hang the paper up to dry. Let it
dry in the dark. Do not use heat as it will result in a loss in contrast.
Make sure the paper is completely dry.
Print under a UV source until the shadow areas start to turn purple-silver.
Wash in plain water until the water is clear. Transfer to a tray with water
and a dollop of hydrogen peroxide solution. Hang up to dry. The hydrogen
peroxide will quickly oxidize the print. Its not necessary because the print
will eventualy oxidize anyway but useing it lets you see the final result
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