From: clay (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Date: 01/30/02-07:18:51 PM Z
I think they may be pretty similar brushes. The Richeson 9010 I use is a
synthetic fiber brush too. I use the 4" version and get it very wet with
distilled water before coating. Then I give the brush 4-6 shakes and coat
the paper. How dry is your brush?
I agree with Carl that it is like the best of both worlds between using a
rod or a brush. The really nice thing in my opinion is that since it is used
so wet, you don't need an army of drying brushes in your darkroom. Just
rinse it well, and dunk it in the distilled water and it's ready again.
>From: Jeff Buckels <email@example.com>
>Subject: Re: WHICH LENNOX?
>Date: Wed, Jan 30, 2002, 6:58 PM
>Carl: I checked this out on the DS website. I take it we're talking about the
>Richeson Quiller Sig. Series 7010 Flat brush? Up to 2"? Fifty bucks or so? I'd
>love (actually, "love" just isn't enough of a word; I'd "lerve") to have a brush
>that coats with the economy of a coating rod. Taking it for granted that I've
>gotten competent w/ the natural fiber Richeson 7010 (thanks Clay), is there
>be any special trick to manipulating this Quiller? Further, I'm obviously leaving
>my share of sensitizer in my current brush (I'm using about double what B&S
>recommends for the coating rod), but it must be said that, as it is, I'm
>the other kinds of problems associated, as far as I'm aware, with coating. So, I
>dunno, anybody got anything to say about that?? -jeff buckels
>Carl Weese wrote:
>> My "magic brush" is the Richeson *artificial bristle* brush sold by Daniel
>> Smith as the "Stephen Quillar signature series". It works beautifully and
>> sheds just about all of the expensive sensitizer, while the natural sable
>> brush eats up at least 1/3 of the coating material. Not cheap, though less
>> than natural critter fur, but the real saving is that it coats with the same
>> drop counts as a glass tube.---Carl
>> web site with picture galleries
>> and workshop information at:
>> >From: firstname.lastname@example.org
>> >To: email@example.com
>> >Subject: Re: WHICH LENNOX?
>> >Date: Wed, Jan 30, 2002, 5:52 PM
>> > Clay, Carl and All: (1) I use Kerik's and Stewart's magic brush. Love it.
>> > This for those listening is the Richeson 9500 (I think the number is) brush,
>> > which costs like $80-$90 (gasp). (2) Picking up on the sub-thread re:
>> > fragility of Platine and drying method. As a general rule, I've been drying
>> > like so: Out of the final wash and onto a clothes-pin-on-a-wire for a minute
>> > or two, turn 90 degrees for another minute or two. On to the ambient-air-only
>> > drying screen. The ambient humidity varies by season and weather, of course,
>> > but around 30-40 this time of year. I really don't know how fast the prints
>> > dry at this rate, because I go out of my way to leave them be (I think
>> > there's a superstitious impulse at work there), but I'm thinking pretty dang
>> > dry in an hour or so but not really really dry for a couple more (?). I guess
>> > I've thought of this as a very careful/robust drying technique, as opposed to
>> > forced air of any kind (I will do that w/ testers and other rough drafts)....
>> > -JB
>> > clay <firstname.lastname@example.org> said:
>> >> Carl wrote:
>> >> I've had a problem with
>> >> >Platine ending up with a fragile finished print surface that nearly needs
>> > to
>> >> >be handled like a charcoal or pastel drawing. The Lenox seems quite immune
>> >> >to scuffing or abrasion.
>> >> Carl:
>> >> I haven't really noticed this. How are you drying it after coating? With
>> >> heat and forced air, moving ambient air, what? Just wondering if the time it
>> >> takes the sensitizer to soak in may be a factor in fragility with Platine.
>> >> Clay
>> > --
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